From germ-killing chillies in hot climates to obscure French offal dishes, it’s often said that food reflects the character and history of the country it’s come from. We look at the fascinating traditions and recipes around the world that have shaped the palates and waistlines of different nations. And as the world shrinks, some of us are still discovering unique delicacies from the less commercialised places on the planet – where religion, indigenous species and traditional cooking methods mean more than the ubiquitous Big Mac.
We are what we eat
Although we have to eat to live, food isn’t just about survival. It’s a lot more complicated than that. It shapes our lives physically, socially, economically, politically, mentally, nutritionally and morally. So are we really what we eat?
In 1825, renowned gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin wrote ‘Tell me how much you eat, and I’ll tell you who you are.’ He could have a point. Throughout history, traditional cultures have been marked by a fear of hunger, and food had been used to demonstrate class and wealth.
Feast or famine?
In the Middle Ages, when most people were preoccupied by food shortages, an abundance of food and an ample girth indicated a position of social privilege and power. Therefore a ruler was defined by how much he ate. A voracious, carnivorous, appetite was linked to physical power and warrior-like bravery. On the other hand, thin people couldn’t be trusted! In 888AD Duke Guido di Spoleto was rejected as the ‘King of Franks’ because he ate too little. “He cannot rule us if he is satisfied with a modest meal” the electors said.
A generation ago, almost all the items from your local shop, would have been sold loose
For centuries to be fat was a sign of wealth, wellbeing and beauty. The rounded nudes in Greek, Roman, Renaissance and Baroque art are a testament to that.
Even today, in African societies and areas of the world where there is famine, being fat remains a symbol of status and power. In Nigeria the rich can pay for special treatment in ‘fattening rooms’ to put on extra weight.
It wasn’t until the nineteenth and twentieth centuries that this attitude changed. As soon as food became readily available, thanks to industrialisation and the growth of the middle classes, those in power distinguished themselves by eating less. The aesthetic of thinness, with its implications of health, spread throughout Europe in the first half of the twentieth century.
However, the devastating effects of two world wars saw a brief return to earlier food models. In the 50’s, following years of rationing and food shortages, female figures on advertising posters were fabulously curvy - glowing with health and presumably wealth.
Nowadays, with an overabundance of cheap, processed food in the West, the ‘cult of the thin’ is in. So has our primitive fear of hunger been replaced by the modern day fear of excess?
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