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Does food create a country’s culture, or does culture create the food?

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From germ-killing chillies in hot climates to obscure French offal dishes, it’s often said that food reflects the character and history of the country it’s come from. We look at the fascinating traditions and recipes around the world that have shaped the palates and waistlines of different nations. And as the world shrinks, some of us are still discovering unique delicacies from the less commercialised places on the planet – where religion, indigenous species and traditional cooking methods mean more than the ubiquitous Big Mac.

We are what we eat

Although we have to eat to live, food isn’t just about survival. It’s a lot more complicated than that. It shapes our lives physically, socially, economically, politically, mentally, nutritionally and morally. So are we really what we eat?

In 1825, renowned gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin wrote ‘Tell me how much you eat, and I’ll tell you who you are.’ He could have a point. Throughout history, traditional cultures have been marked by a fear of hunger, and food had been used to demonstrate class and wealth.

Feast or famine?

In the Middle Ages, when most people were preoccupied by food shortages, an abundance of food and an ample girth indicated a position of social privilege and power. Therefore a ruler was defined by how much he ate. A voracious, carnivorous, appetite was linked to physical power and warrior-like bravery. On the other hand, thin people couldn’t be trusted! In 888AD Duke Guido di Spoleto was rejected as the ‘King of Franks’ because he ate too little. “He cannot rule us if he is satisfied with a modest meal” the electors said.

A generation ago, almost all the items from your local shop, would have been sold loose

For centuries to be fat was a sign of wealth, wellbeing and beauty. The rounded nudes in Greek, Roman, Renaissance and Baroque art are a testament to that.

Even today, in African societies and areas of the world where there is famine, being fat remains a symbol of status and power. In Nigeria the rich can pay for special treatment in ‘fattening rooms’ to put on extra weight.

It wasn’t until the nineteenth and twentieth centuries that this attitude changed. As soon as food became readily available, thanks to industrialisation and the growth of the middle classes, those in power distinguished themselves by eating less. The aesthetic of thinness, with its implications of health, spread throughout Europe in the first half of the twentieth century.

However, the devastating effects of two world wars saw a brief return to earlier food models. In the 50’s, following years of rationing and food shortages, female figures on advertising posters were fabulously curvy - glowing with health and presumably wealth.

Nowadays, with an overabundance of cheap, processed food in the West, the ‘cult of the thin’ is in. So has our primitive fear of hunger been replaced by the modern day fear of excess?

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SOME LIKE IT HOT

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While class determines the quantity of what we eat, geography, it would seem, determines what it tastes like.

Have you ever noticed that countries like Thailand, the Philippines, India and Malaysia are at the top of the hot spicy food list while Sweden, Finland and Norway are at the bottom? This is because the chemical compounds in ingredients, such as chilli, kill off food-borne bacteria and parasites, which are more prevalent in hotter climates.

And if you look at most recipes across the world, you can guarantee that at least one ingredient in a recipe has anti-bacterial properties. Garlic, onion, allspice and oregano are good examples. Research has shown that they are the best all-round bacterial killers, closely followed by thyme, cinnamon, tarragon, chillies and cumin.

In fact everything we do with food, whether it’s drying, cooking, smoking, salting or adding spices, is an attempt to keep us safe from being poisoned by our microscopic competitors, so as germs constantly change and mutate to stay ahead of us, it would appear that our recipes and tastes evolve to include more bug-fighting ingredients. More turmeric anyone?

Don’t point your chopsticks

Dining etiquette is fraught with danger because it varies wildly from culture to culture. Get it wrong and you could wreck a business deal, ruin a date and generally cause mass offence. So how do you avoid the perils and pitfalls of bad table manners? Where do you sit? What utensils are used? Is it a knife, fork, hands or should you use chopsticks? Can you lick your fingers or let out a loud belch? Here are a few examples to keep you on the straight and narrow:

In Germany it’s good manners to remain standing until you are shown your seat. Don’t begin eating till your host signals to do so and keep your elbows off the table.

Honoured guests in Japan sit furthest from the door and are the first to be served. It’s good etiquette to try a bit of everything. Keep your conversation subdued and whatever you do, don’t point your chopsticks.

Meals in Turkey are a social affair and conversations are loud and animated. The head of the family is served first and asking for more food is considered a compliment.

In the Middle East you should eat with your right hand only. You’ll be offered prime choices of meats, including the head, eyes etc. Meat is torn by holding the piece against the dish and tearing off the desired amount with your thumb and forefinger, while rice is scooped up with the tips of your fingers. Don’t be afraid of making a mess and don’t clear your plate unless you want it immediately refilled. A hearty belch after a meal is also considered a compliment.

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Are you really going to eat that?

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It’s not just table manners where people differ. In every culture there are both acceptable and unacceptable foods. What’s ‘weird’ or ‘yuck’ to us, is probably ‘yum’ to someone else. For instance a lot of Chinese people are lacto-intolerant and find cheese ‘disgusting’, but they would happily eat fried duck feet. Likewise horses, turtles, guinea pigs and dogs are considered to be delicacies in some countries, while in Britain they are definitely off the menu.

But as the world gets smaller, tastes change. Regional favourites get nearer, less exotic and less ‘weird’. So maybe more unusual foodstuffs will find their way onto our supermarket shelves…as long as they don’t resemble a pet.

Multi-cultured swap shop

When it comes to food, Britain has always been multi-cultural, importing ingredients and ideas from places across Europe, North America, China and India – during the time of the British Empire and as a result of post-war immigration. The Great British Curry harks back to the days of the Raj and may actually be hotter and spicier than the traditional North Indian variety.

And here’s another curry fact - the Balti curry was invented in Birmingham in the mid seventies by an Indian restaurant owner anxious to get an edge over his competitors. It soon spread in popularity and now Balti dishes are served in every UK Indian Restaurant! ‘The Balti Triangle’, mostly in the Sparkbrook area, is now a tourist attraction. However don't ask for a Balti when you are in Asia because unless they have been to Birmingham they won’t know what you are talking about, apart from the fact you have just requested a bucket!

Yum or Yuck?

One big melting pot?

Not everyone is happy about the new ‘globalisation of culture’ that’s supposedly taking place. While ‘foreign’ foodstuffs are being embraced, some people would argue that we are becoming homogenised – or rather ‘Americanised’.

Certainly the spread of American fast-food chains has had an effect on world cultures and their eating habits. Take the French. They are proud of having a unique cuisine that reflects their culture. Some French people would even think that fast food was of a lower quality and had no place in French society.

Changing traditions

In Italy, Starbucks caused a few concerns, because coffee is more than just a drink over there – it’s a way of life. While in the US it’s common to order a take out, in Italy people prefer to chat and relax in a coffee bar that doesn’t follow an impersonal, standardised formula.

Another example is the introduction of McDonalds in China. In the past, festivities marking a child’s birthday were not celebrated in China. However McDonalds established a new tradition by successfully promoting American-style birthdays as part of its marketing strategy.

It sounds trivial but should we be worried? Throughout history, both culture and food have changed and evolved. Surely globalisation has just accelerated this change?

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