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Have we lost our senses when it concerns food freshness?

A growing danger is lurking in our lives that we've become so reliant on 'Best Before/Use By/Sell By' dates we no longer have the skills to judge whether food is fine to eat or fit for the bin. The latest figures have even suggested that the average household chucks out a third of their weekly shop of perfectly good food, just to go and buy the same thing all over again.

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With 4.5m cases of food poisoning in this country every year, The Food Standards Agency says that consumers shouldn't gamble with use-by dates

So are retailers deploying a cynical, convenient marketing ploy to reassure customers post-BSE, CJD, salmonella, E-coli and [insert latest scare here...]? Or are date stamps simply a sensible and reliable way for us to avoid food that will make us ill? For the record, best-before dates are more about quality than safety - so when the date runs out, it doesn't mean that the food is dangerous, just that it will no longer be at its best.

Plus there are so many variables involved in the preparation and storage of food to consider. So any single date cannot guarantee food safety. There is also the risk of potential contamination at source. Increasing evidence has even suggested that many products, such as chicken and eggs that are supposedly fresh and within their dates, are already contaminated with potential food-poisoning bacteria.

We think it's high time we had a poke around some of the interesting facts and myths surrounding this controversial debate and provide some good old tips on how to test for freshness.

So how does a manufacturer arrive at a use-by date?

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Sell-by and use-by dates surfaced in the 1960s and 70s, following scares such as the Aberdeen typhoid outbreak, which was blamed on the re-cycling of corned beef.

Nowadays, when a new product comes on the market, tests will be run to see how it is affected by not only the manufacturing process, but transportation from the factory, storage in the store, and then in the home. Supermarkets tend to err on the side of caution - as consumers often choose to ignore use-by dates, confident they have a couple of days grace. The trouble with a food-poisoning bug like campylobacter, however, is that you can't see it and you can't smell it.

The job of the Food Standards Agency (FSA) and their labelling regulations is 'to protect consumer interests in relation to food safety and standards.' There are leaflets, websites and entire government departments set up to monitor this process, however as a consumer looking at the fundamentals of these laws, it can get rather complicated.

Sell by dates are a legal minefield

It's easy to see why food labelling has become a tangle of legal jargon, government-speak and is ripe for litigation. But did you know that only the 'Use By' date is stipulated as a legal requirement by the FSA? And for added confusion, 'Sell by' or even 'Display until' can appear next to 'Best Before' or 'Use By' dates. However, seeing another date on the pack tends to sow a seed of doubt that again this is a date that should be abided by. In fact, these dates are probably more useful for the store - helping with stock rotation and ordering.

Artificial colourings are often a sign that real ingredients are missing

Fresh foods like fruit and vegetables are naturally full of vibrant colours. Our ancestors soon learned that such foods are good to eat, and used colours and smells to help them judge what food was safe and what was harmful. In turn, we have inherited an instinctive attraction for the wonderful colours and smells associated with good food.

Unfortunately, by the time a modern food manufacturer has put food ingredients through the mill of processes that turns them into a food or drink, they've often processed the true colours right out. The products end up looking yucky grey or brown. And some of the nutritional goodness may have been lost in the same way. To make the processed food look more attractive or tasty, manufacturers replace the missing hue by using highly concentrated colours.

Some of these come from natural sources. But many manufacturers skip using real ingredients altogether. For example, instead of orange juice they use orange colouring; red colouring replaces real strawberries; and instead of making custard with egg yolks they use yellow colouring. Is it any wonder that it's becoming increasingly harder to tell what's fresh and real anymore?



Is this the beginning of a brave new food world? Smart packaging will soon be the future of preservation

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Nanotechnologists claim that it won't be long before the food package itself will signal when its contents are no longer edible. A combination of tiny sensors and activators built into the pack will know if something is wrong - correcting the problem or warning the consumer. It might even extend a food's life by having anti-microbial properties that can detect microorganisms.

So are all these clever scientific advances yet another reason for us not to rely on our five senses, commonsense and a prehistoric aversion to bad food?

The 'one-stop' shop approach to shopping at supermarkets has stopped many of us flitting between the butcher, the baker, the fishmonger and the greengrocer, to buy our unlabelled food during the week as we run out.

"It's gardeners and people from an older generation who understand what freshness really is"

Scientists are constantly cooking up new ways to keep food looking good

It's hardly surprising that, we as consumers are losing touch with where our food comes from and knowing its true freshness. In a supermarket you can't be guided by texture or smell, because the products are so heavily packaged, and so many different new technologies are used to extend the natural life of a product. Fresh fruits or salads, for instance, are 'gas flushed', which means they are prepared and packed in a modified atmosphere.

Is irradiation killing off flavour along with the bugs?

In fact the food we buy has quite often been pre-treated with some sort of high-tech process or chemicals. Irradiation is just one of the techniques used to kill bacteria such as salmonella, E.coli O157 and stop vegetables from sprouting. Ever since Nasa first fed the Apollo 17 crew 32 years ago with irradiated meat, the technology has persisted as one of the food industry's favourite means of prolonging shelf life.

Irradiated strawberries can stay unspoiled for up to 3 weeks, versus 3 to 5 days if fresh. It could be argued that with Strawberries travelling from abroad, after being irradiated, we are losing some of the smell and flavour you'd still find in our local produce.

"Why bin a sliced loaf after a few days if techniques developed for Nasa can preserve it for months if not years?"

Another preserving technique being worked on is - high-pressure processing (HPP). This blasts orange juice with pressures up to 150,000 pounds per square inch. And you can also look forward to ready-meals in the future to be treated to bursts of high-voltage electricity with pulsed electric field (PEF) technology. Both these methods are designed to prevent bacteria from reproducing without destroying the food's texture or taste.

If we didn't have these rules, regulations and scientific inventions to abide by and rely on what would we do? You can be sure our forebears would never have been as quick as us to jettison carrots to the compost just because they were looking a bit tired. We now always expect to eat fresh food, whereas previous generations, without fridges and freezers, would have kept food cool in larders for longer and by preserving and treating it in different ways. We've included just a few of the methods, past and present, that have been proven as workable and safe. So in true Mrs Beeton style there now follows…



Your back-to-basics guide to testing for freshness and preserving foodstuffs

DISCOVER TIPS AND TECHNIQUES YOU DIDN'T EVEN KNOW YOU NEEDED TO KNOW
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DAIRY

Eggs

Years before Edwina Currie was even hatched and 1988's salmonella outbreak blighted eggs as a bacteria laden food, eggs were always kept in the larder. In fact, the famous wartime reference book - 'Complete Home Cookery', would tell you not to refrigerate eggs as mould could grow within the egg! The FSA would now advise that you store eggs in the fridge as the porous shell of the egg, which can easily admit bacteria. In any case, the eggs should be placed with the pointed end down and brought back to room temperature an hour before use.

How fresh is your egg?

  1. Fresh eggs are heavy and should feel heavy. They lose a tiny amount of their weight by evaporation every day, so eggs that are very fresh when plunged into salted water will sink immediately. Ones that are 3 to 6 days old will float halfway up in the water in a standing up position. However, if your egg is bad, it will float horizontally on top of the water.
  2. Eggs when held up to the light should show a very small air chamber through the shell. If the chamber is large, the egg is older.
  3. Eggs contain a 'thick and thin white'. A spanking fresh egg will have the two whites well defined. As the egg loses its freshness both the whites begin to thin and 'run' further. When an older egg is poached in the white breaks up and strings easily.
  4. Raw egg yolks will keep covered for 24 hrs and whites for 6 to 12 hours in the fridge. Raw egg whites freeze very successfully - good to know for when you want to knock up a last minute meringue pudding.
"Some people are born without a sense of smell. Called 'anosmia', their lives are endangered by the problem of eating spoilt food"

Milk

As a general guide, pasteurised milk can be kept 1 to 2 days in a cool place and 3 to 4 in the refrigerator. Milk also freezes well which is handy for 'running out' emergencies. Always make sure there is room for the milk to expand when frozen.

A good reason not to cry over sour milk

Milk that's gone slightly off can be used to make cottage cheese. The milk is left until it forms curds and whey. The liquid and solids are then poured through a muslin cloth and the solids left behind are mixed with salt to taste. Sour milk is great for making scones.

Say cheese… To 'cut the mould off or not' question

There can't be many of us that haven't been tempted to simply cut off the mouldy bit and eat the cheese left behind. However, what the eye can't see is, that the microscopic mould molecules have by now grown throughout the whole cheese. Of course, it's a different matter with a blue variety where the mould growth is intentional; the cheese having been injected with a safe mould to give added character!

MEAT, POULTRY & FISH

Meaty matters

Our meat is now butchered quite differently than it would have been even 50 years ago. Nowadays, meat is often used in a stir-fry or to be consumed rare. In these cases, the bacteria levels must be low, as the cooking process may not destroy the dangerous organisms.

The type of meat is also an important factor. Pork, for instance, should be treated differently to beef and lamb. Before refrigeration, it was deemed that pork should never be eaten when there isn't an 'r' in the months, i.e: May, June, July and August.

Preserving traditions

Salting and smoking has been used since ancient times on raw meats such as: pickled pork, cured bacon, salt beef and pickled tongue. Beef is not as well suited to smoking as other meats. It can be dried as in Swiss dry beef or beef jerky as its sometimes known. Canning and freezing are the most usual ways of preserving meats today.

Storing meat safely

Meat and poultry should be kept in clean sealed containers on the bottom shelf of the fridge, so any moisture or blood can't touch or drip onto other food.

Sausage inflation?

If you've ever brought home a packet of sausages and wondered why the packaging looks and feels inflated, here's why: raw sausages often carry bacteria and if they're out of the fridge for a while, such as a car boot, the bacteria will multiply and start releasing gases. Cooking the sausages may prevent the bacteria from making you ill. But throwing away the food in this case is probably the safest option.

Poultry

All varieties of poultry should never be eaten raw, and avoided if you sense a smell to the flesh, or spot any discolouration. Cook it well too; as you should never eat poultry that has any sign of pinkness or blood to it. Lots of people think they should wash raw chicken, but there's no need. Any germs on it will be killed if you cook it thoroughly. In fact, if you do wash chicken, you risk splashing germs onto the sink, worktop and dishes.

Fish

Prawns and shellfish must always be eaten very fresh. Check to see that your mussels, clams and other molluscs are alive before cooking. To do this, simply tap the shell hard or squeeze it hard together with your fingers, if the shell stays shut you know something that's living must be doing this!

'Game' fish

Fish such as mackerel and grey mullet must be eaten quickly as they are scavengers of the sea, and go off very quickly. But some fish don't fall into the ultra-fresh category. These are described as 'game fish' because their flavour is enhanced by the length of time from when they have been caught. Dover Sole for instance is only considered 'mature' once the skin can be removed without too much resistance.

Keeping an eye on freshness

When purchasing fish: 'look' at its eyes. Are they milky and cloudy or bright and sparkling? The flesh should be firm and bounce back to the touch. In most species the gills should be fresh-smelling, pink, wet and possibly (in a very fresh fish) bloody. As the fish loses condition, the gills become dull and gummed up with slimy mucus.

FRUIT & VEGETABLES

Fresh tips and preserving techniques

Fruit and vegetables have lent themselves to all sorts of methods of preservation, many of which are still used today. Apples used to be stored over the winter months in a dark room with good ventilation where they would have been regularly turned and checked for mould. This is where the phrase "one bad apple spoils the lot" comes from.

Many vegetables would also have been preserved in salt. Runner beans, for instance, were washed, dried and sliced and then laid in layer upon layer of salt in sealed glass jars and used for up to 3 months. Fruits can be used for longer by being turned into jellies, jams, and chutneys. Blackberries and blackcurrants were made into a cordial type juice, which could be kept and administered to people in the bleaker months as a source of vitamin C.

"Some methods of fresh food preservation are now sold as delicacies, such as sun-ripened tomatoes"

Commonsense is the most important sense

It goes without saying that it's never advisable to eat anything that smells foul, is mouldy, somehow doesn't look right, or feels peculiar. However, instead of demanding perfect looking foodstuffs from our supermarkets that must last at least a week in pristine condition in our fridges, maybe we could all find longer lasting satisfaction in shopping more often for fresher, tastier food, that isn't packed full of preservatives and artificial ingredients.

The forum, as always, is ripe for a good discussion on this topic and other matters. So if you have any interesting views or tips handed down to you from generations past, you know where to spill the beans.



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