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Hooked on fish

June 2008

A succulent piece of smoked salmon enjoyed within sniffing distance of the smokehouse. Deep–fried haddock eaten on the beach with seagulls wheeling overhead, or an oyster shucked just a mile or two from its bed.

Whatever your own personal favourite, fish is a food with an unmistakable sense of place. These hints and tips will help you choose, prepare and cook it to perfection.

Freshness is everything

There’s no mistaking really fresh fish. The skin should be vibrant and shiny and the flesh firm. In general the thing to look for is overall brightness: stale fish look grey, dull and droopy with blurred eyes and flabby flesh.

If you’re lucky enough to buy your fish straight off the boat, cleaning it is surprisingly easy. Remove the insides through the gill-slits (if the head is to be left on) by squeezing and scraping with a teaspoon, or by making a slit along the belly, opening the fish out and then scraping. Wash the fish thoroughly after cleaning and dry, ready for filleting. To find out exactly how it’s done, see our ‘How to Fillet a Fish’ vodcast.

Chill at the grill

As Shakespeare said, ‘Summer’s lease hath all too short a date.’ So why not fire up the barbecue and make the most of the all-too-brief British sunshine? Grilling provides ample opportunity to feed our most basic human needs for fire, food, and company.

Kebabs of chunky fish like monkfish, tuna, and swordfish with red onions or shallots are delicious. Try marinating them in harissa, a Middle Eastern spice paste of chillies, cumin, caraway, paprika, turmeric, garlic and olive oil.

Cook whole fish such as mackerel or snapper with a couple of additions — try placing slices of lemon and some sprigs of thyme in the mackerel, and a boiled lime and red pepper inside the snapper — and score the skin slightly. Also, why not try asking your fishmonger to clean a couple of baby squid for you, cut the bodies into flat pieces and cook thoroughly.

A taste of latin cool

Ceviche, a tangy South American speciality using lime, lemon or orange juice flavoured with herbs and chilli, makes a refreshing addition to any summer barbecue. The key to ceviche is that the raw fish (generally white fish, although you can use scallops, shrimp, mussels or lobster too) is ‘cooked’ using the acid of citrus fruits and chillis, rather than heat. While the fish is technically raw, the acid gives it a cooked consistency.

It’s a wonderfully informal dish that invites variations. Red or sweet onions, mango or watermelon, any fruit or vegetable that you think would go well in your ceviche probably will. Just remember, because the fish is never cooked in heat, it must be as fresh as possible, and the dish should be prepared the day you buy the fish.

The other great thing about ceviche is that it cooks while you’re lounging around in the sun or making margaritas. Prepare the dish several hours before you’re ready to eat, so the acidity in the citrus juice has a chance to ‘cook’ the fish. Add a little coriander at the last minute for the very best flavour.

Fish for thought

Overfishing is the greatest single threat to marine wildlife and habitats, with many fish now critically endangered. If you want to make informed choices about the fish you choose, The Guardian carries an interesting feature on eco–labelling.

Britain’s seas are turning green »

If you have any hints, tips or questions of your own, remember to visit the forum.




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