It seems that every day there’s another conflicting story about fish. On the one hand, it’s the darling of the dieticians, bursting with vitamins and beneficial oils. On the other, the oceans’ stocks are depleting dramatically, with activists gloomily predicting the fish will all be gone in 40 years’ time.

With wild fish stocks so vulnerable, aquaculture seems an ideal way of giving fish a break. But how can you be sure the fish you choose hasn’t been intensively farmed and pumped full of chemical nasties?

Thankfully there are a number of reputable organic sources of high quality farmed fish, enabling the health-conscious fish lover to indulge their passion. Organic farmed fish is increasingly varied and impressive in quality. Nowadays you can find all kinds on offer — everything from the humble salmon to trout, sea bass, bream, turbot, cod, halibut and even shellfish.

So what are the main principles of organic fish farming? The maintenance of aquatic eco–systems is paramount, as is the prohibition of the pesticides and chemicals present in traditional fish farming. The fish are not fed with food containing artificial colour or GM ingredients and the density of the stock is kept low – all of which reduces stress, maximises disease resistance and, as many claim, significantly improves the flavour.

By 2010, half of all the fish the world eats will be farmed

By 2010, half of all the fish the world eats will be farmed, according to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation. And, with many wild stocks in steep decline, farmed fish may in a few decades be the only way anyone but the super-wealthy can get their fix of Omega–3.

It may be that if we change our habits to eat sustainably farmed fish instead of beef or chicken, we could avert the impending crisis in global food supply. Thousands of years ago our ancestors domesticated wild cattle and pigs to use them more efficiently as a resource – so why not do the same with fish? One day it could feed the world.