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The Great British Fry Up - Heaven or Heart Attack on a plate?

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So what does ‘Great British fry-up’ really mean? Is it a nostalgic, no-nonsense term of endearment, or an artery-clogging ‘eggbaconchipsandbeanstwice’ staple of the greasy spoon?

The full English Breakfast, to give the fry-up its proper culinary title, actually began in Victorian times in the houses of successful farmers or landowners.

Now it is in dire risk of disappearing from being served up in our kitchens and Formica-clad caffs. In 1958, half of all British and Irish households started the day with a fry-up, compared with only 1% of the population now. We blame the ‘healthy eating’ police, sugar-coated cereal killers and our time-poor culture.

“…A SUBSTANTIAL BREAKFAST OF SUNDRY SORTS OF GOOD THINGS TO EAT AND DRINK.”

1898 Description from Brewer's Dictionary of Phrase and Fable.'

The full English evolved from cholesterol-packed posh nosh to working man’s fuel

For the middle and upper classes of the 19th century, the full English Breakfast was a hearty spread laid out buffet style, similar to the way hotels serve it today. An Atkins diet devotee would be hard-pressed to leave the table feeling hungry. You’d get a choice of: bacon, eggs (cooked every which way), devilled sheep’s kidneys, kedgeree, porridge, kippers, toast and marmalade, washed down with pots of tea, coffee and cocoa.

Only with the relative increase in the wealth of the general populace in the 20th century did the full breakfast meal become commonplace amongst the working classes. Apart from perhaps the addition of black pudding and tomato ketchup, the basic ingredients haven’t changed much since Edward VII dipped his soldiers in a fried egg.




Make it the Full Monty

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An English breakfast, which contains everything on the menu, is often referred to as a “Full Monty” – an attribute to Field Marshal Montgomery of World War II fame.

Starting with the country of St George, the base of a full English is bacon rashers and eggs. These are traditionally fried, but grilled bacon and poached or scrambled eggs make for a healthier alternative. Tea or coffee and toast spread with butter are the usual accompaniments.

The cooked breakfast boasts as many national variants as there are regional accents

The full English’s identical twin across the Irish Sea is called the Ulster Fry. This might include white pudding, soda bread called soda farls and a type of hash brown known as boxty or potato farls. The full Irish breakfast is also known as “chub” in certain parts of Ireland. The local Irish slang for eating it is “chubbing up”. North of the border lies the Full Scottish – and is almost identical to its Saxon neighbour, except for the addition of fried sliced haggis, potato scones and oatcakes instead of fried bread.

Just before Wales thinks it has been forgotten about, a proper Welsh breakfast features nutritious laverbread. This is made with seaweed purée mixed with oatmeal and cockles before being formed into patties and fried in bacon fat.

If an Englishman’s grub of choice is a fry up, then his castle is the greasy spoon, service station or net-curtained guest house

Fried leftover mashed potatoes mixed with leftover vegetables from a roast meal the day before and fried in butter makes a popular English side dish called Bubble and Squeak. The Irish equivalent is Irish Colcannon, and the Scottish version has the wonderfully evocative title of Rumbledethumps.

Bubble and Squeak has become a much-loved feature on the full English Breakfast menu

For fans of good food, it’s a shame that the comforting calorific sizzle of the traditional cooked breakfast is being superseded by the Continental alternative. The full English may not even be survived by the old haunts that serve it. More than one in nine old-style cafés have shut down since 1997.

Where else, but the old-style greasy spoon will you find cauldrons of baked beans glugging away like volcanic geysers, relentless spitting bacon and fuming tea machines?

Today you have to hunt far and wide to find decent, intact cafés with classic lino floors, proper seats and small cabinets of biscuits and crusty rolls. Café family owners are also nearing retirement age and the children don't want to take over the business.

In fact, unless you’re Grade II listed and one of only two protected twentieth century establishments (such as the legendary E.Pellici in London’s Bethnal Green) it’s more than likely that you’re serving Big Macs, rather than big breakfasts.

The full English has retired to hotels – offered to tourists as traditional fare

Even though cooking burns 100 more calories an hour than sitting down, most of us now only treat ourselves to a cooked breakfast at the weekend when we’ve got the time, or have got up so late we’re more into Brunch than Breakfast.

A sausage might contain 127 calories, but a croissant is about 188, and not nearly as sustaining

Cost can be an issue. Admittedly, you probably wouldn’t get much change from a £20 note for six free-range eggs, a packet of bacon and all the trimmings. In terms of nutritional value however, a sumptuous cooked breakfast is better value than an over-priced box of cereal. Perhaps if there are just one or two people in the household, the savvy option may simply be to head for the local greasy spoon.



Additional ingredients might include:

  • Fried bread
  • Sausages
  • Black or white pudding
  • Fried, grilled or tinned tomatoes
  • Fried mushrooms
  • Chips
  • Baked beans
  • Sautéed potatoes or hash browns
  • Bubble and Squeak
  • Brown sauce and tomato ketchup

Enjoy a good grilling, not a fry-up!

The Full English Breakfast is a mixed pan of health benefits and health problems

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Health campaigners argue that the saturated fat and salt content of fried breakfasts are adding to the UK’s obesity and heart disease figures. Old eating habits, however, can be made to die.

A pilot study recently carried out at a truck stop in Featherstone proved that lorry drivers were more than happy to tuck into a healthily cooked breakfast – especially if it included delicious free kedgeree and tomato bean concoctions prepared by celebrity chef James Martin. Here’s hoping that all motorway service stations will soon be transformed by a Jamie Oliver school dinner type initiative.

Nutrition concerns aren't just a modern phenomenon

During the 1920s and 1930s in America, Edward Bernays promoted sales of bacon by getting 5,000 physicians to claim that bacon and eggs made for a hearty breakfast.

America is also responsible for the notorious microwaveable fry-up called “The Hungry Man All Day Breakfast”. Made by Swanson – producers of some of the world's fattiest TV dinners – it’s an unforgivable lard-fest. The packaging proudly claims that it contains 98% fat and 231% of your recommended daily cholesterol intake.

Breakfasts containing black pudding have been found to interfere with the results of bowel cancer screening tests

Other medical mysteries have also been explained by the fried breakfast. A study in the town of Bury, widely acknowledged as the ‘black pudding capital of the world’, suggested that overindulgence in the delicacy could skew the results of tests designed to pick up early signs of bowel cancer. This is because black pudding is made from a mixture of oatmeal, fat spices and most significantly – ox blood.

On a more positive note, doctors have found that if the breast cancer drug lapatinib is taken at the same time as a fatty meal, it works at least three times as well. Add grapefruit juice into the cancer-curing equation and the researchers say the pills could be five times more effective by aiding absorption.

We also have the full English Breakfast to thank for the Monty Python spam sketch and the name given to unsolicited mass e-mails.

“Well, there's egg and bacon; egg, sausage and bacon; egg and spam; egg, bacon and spam…"

Monty Python, 1970

Quality ingredients, cooked in just a little fat make a better breakfast than a coffee shop muffin and Latte

There really is no excuse for not enjoying a cooked breakfast when it’s so easy to make it healthy and nutritious. Simply grill food instead of frying. Use lean bacon, and trim the fat off. Try reduced fat sausages and poach eggs rather than fry them. Top the lot off with grilled mushrooms, grilled tomatoes, low sugar baked beans and a slice of lightly buttered granary toast.

So are you a big fan of the full English fry-up, or consider it a health disaster whichever way you like your eggs? Perhaps you can tell us where to find the best greasy spoon in the world. At the very least, share your tasty tips on making the best breakfast ever. We’re taking your order on the forum board now.



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