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Too spoilt for choice?

We look at the past, present and future of food.

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Trends in food have been as up and down as our hemlines—reflecting our political landscape, immigration, holidays abroad and the emancipation of women. In the 1950s, the concept of ‘Healthy Eating’ was as foreign to most people as spaghetti Bolognese.

Ready-to-eat microwave meals lauded convenience in the eighties. And by the nineties we were consuming 604 fewer calories per day on average than we did twenty years earlier. Another legacy many brands now share is, that a hundred or so years ago, foods were purposely invented to mimic their more luxurious and expensive equivalent, often using inferior ingredients.

Who do you think are top of the class for ‘clever’ foods?

More recently, we’ve seen manufacturers taking ordinary dairy products, fruit drinks and bread and adding ‘clever’ ingredients to them. The most well known of these are: brain-boosting Omega 3s and ‘friendly bacteria’ probiotics. Presumably they’re there to make us smart enough to appreciate the boost to our health and intellect we’re receiving.

Health claims for foods have been made for 150 years

Even the humble digestive biscuit was marketed on the back of sodium bicarbonate—considered at the time to be a digestive tonic. Wartime rationing and its hangover into the 1950s pressured the government, and the food companies, into taking nutrition seriously. That period saw vitamins and minerals being added to food, notably breakfast cereals, to improve the nation’s health and fighting spirit.

‘LESS IS MORE’ is all the rage now

For over two decades we’ve ‘gone for the burn’ with Jane Fonda workouts and Atkins’ Diet devotees have consumed enough protein to make a 17th Century Chop House proprietor proud. This search for bodily perfection has created all manner of fat and thin eating disorders. Thankfully, many of us are now better educated about food and cooking—ditching the fads and choosing a simple, balanced diet.

One of the most significant emerging forces in food marketing today is the ‘less-is-more’ concept. This is typified by people who try and buy additive-free, whole-nut, whole-grain, whole-fruit and ‘nothing-but-the-fruit’ brands of food and drink.

‘Less-is-more’ is all the rage now

The digestive tonic.

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Running parallel, however, to our desire for the good, the natural and the unprocessed, is wanting foods with something extra added. A prime example of what’s exciting our novelty-obsessed industry at the moment is gamma-amino butyric acid (GABA).

In Japan, a mood-balancing substance has been added to chocolate

GABA is a naturally occurring neurotransmitter in the brain and studies have shown it calms: post-menopausal women, students and beagles while strengthening the muscles and reducing fat! After being launched in Japan in 2004 in a Malteser style sweet, its supposed ‘scientific’ benefits attracted a new male market—one that until now had dismissed chocolate as being a bit girlie. ‘For your struggle in a stressful society’ the wrapper on GABA Mental Balance Chocolate snappily claims. One can only imagine the advertising slogan when GABA chocolate reaches the UK.

The New ‘F’ is ‘Functional’ food.

Food is no longer just something that tastes nice and gives us energy; it’s been made ‘functional’—changing you from the inside and the way you digest. Marketing consultancies and bio-tech laboratories are hungrily developing and processing the stuff as fast as we buy it.

From modified crops to modified humans

But where the science gets more intriguing, and scary, is in the world of fat. In the 1970s—‘cream cakes were simply naughty but nice’. Now in the noughties, you’ll find a growing number of slimming products, fruit smoothies, biscuits and desserts that are positively fetishistic—filled with satiating additives made from complex oil emulsions.

‘We have ways of making you think you’ve eaten more than you have!’

Once we could be accused of playing with our food—now food can play with your mind. Found in things like fruit smoothies, satiety additives work by forming a soft gel in your stomach. This gel expands to give you the physical sensation of fullness, but none of the fat.

There’s never been so much choice. But it’s often at an environmental cost

As 21st century consumers caught in the blinding headlights of consumerism and ethics, we’re at confusing crossroads. We desire health and beauty, but don’t want to get off the sofa. We appreciate the importance of world trade for developing nations, but insist it doesn’t clock up food-miles. And all-year-round fruit and veg are great, as long as they taste of something.

The scale of change has been immense. When Queen Elizabeth II was being crowned in 1953, families were grateful for choice and an extra few ounces of jam. Now we expect 200 different types of bread from an online supermarket to spread it on. Has the food world gone mad? Share your non-modified thoughts on the forum.

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