In Search Of Good Food - Section Navigation

TRADITIONAL FESTIVE FOOD THROUGH THE AGES

Today’s Christmas dinner is a two thousand year-old mix of religion, politics, superstition and preservation techniques.

Page 1 | 2 | 3   

Considering how blessed we are with plentiful supplies of food and drink, celebrating the birth of Christ with unabashed feasting might seem a bit strange now. But go back a few centuries, and it’s a whole different story.

 
 

With the arrival of Christianity in the 4th century, pagan traditions and Christmas celebrations became inextricably linked. It’s easy to understand why Christmas dinner became the one feast to be enjoyed by everyone, during what was otherwise a fairly grim and bitterly cold part of the year.

Refrigeration is a fairly new invention

Before the advent of fridges, families recognised that for a festive feast more tempting than a frozen turnip, it was vital to preserve crops harvested over the summer. Collecting nuts, drying or pickling fruit, vegetables and meat with sugar, vinegar and salt were practised skills.

This could be the reason why Christmas puddings, cakes and sweets we enjoy today feature so many dried fruits and nuts. That’s still no excuse for those sticky ‘Eat Me’ dates you see in shops around now!

 

Make a wish with your first mince pie and it will come true

 

Mince pies used to be one large pie stuffed with shredded meat, spices and fruit. This recipe only changed in Victorian times when the meat was left out. One had to be careful though — refusing the first pie offered to you over Christmas would bring bad luck.

By the 17th century Christmas had become a holiday of celebration and enjoyment. But, ‘Bah humbug’, Oliver Cromwell decided to ban Christmas and return it to a strictly religious affair.

It was fashionable in the 16th century for mince pies to be shaped like a crib

In London, soldiers were ordered to go round the streets and confiscate food being cooked for Christmas. Cromwell even stopped mince pies being shaped like a baby’s crib, as this was seen as bordering on blasphemy.

Baking for God, King & Country

The history of the Christmas pud. is a savoury to sweet journey, packed with spiritual significance.

Page 1 | 2 | 3   

Christmas pudding begain as a spicy 14th century ‘porridge’ called frumenty. In the Middle Ages it was made by boiling beef and mutton with raisins, currants, prunes, wines and spices and then eaten as a fasting dish in preparation for Christmas

Quakers regarded plum pudding as ‘the invention of the scarlet whore of Babylon’

 

By 1595 frumenty was evolving into plum pudding, having been thickened with eggs, breadcrumbs, dried fruit and given more flavour with ale and spirits. Just as it became the customary Christmas dessert, along came those killjoy Puritans again. They banned it as a ‘lewd custom’, describing its rich ingredients as ‘unfit for God-fearing people’.

George I, who having loved plum pudding, thankfully re-established it as part of the Christmas feast in 1714. By Victorian times Christmas puddings looked and tasted like the ones we have today.

Tradition states that puddings should be made by the 25th Sunday after Trinity and prepared with 13 ingredients to represent Christ and His Disciples. Every member of the family must also take turns to stir the pudding with a wooden spoon from east to west, in honour of the Three Kings.

“Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best. Pig, veal, goose and capon, and turkey well drestl cheese, apples and nuts, jolly carols to hear.”

Taken from Mrs Beeton’s book of household management

Setting light to the brandy signifies Christ’s passion, while a decorative sprig of holly represents His ‘Crown of Thorns’

Putting a silver coin in the pudding is another age-old custom that is said to bring wealth, health and happiness to whoever finds it.

 

Once upon a time the christmas turkey didn’t exist… Swan sandwich anyone?

Digging into the historic origins of the modern-day Christmas dinner reveals a fascinating spread of New World food discoveries and changing lifestyles.

Christmas today without roast turkey on the menu is unthinkable. But before the time of Henry VIII you would have been lucky to see one. Turkeys are natives of America and only came to Europe after the continent’s discovery. It was about 1585 before the turkey joined all the various other meats on the table. And you’d have to wait another two years for the Brussels sprout to make an appearance.

 

Henry VIII gave us permission to get royally stuffed and sleep it off on the sofa

With all this gluttony taking place, Henry VIII sensibly made it law that on Christmas Day nobody could partake in any energetic sports, other than archery. This activity was seen as essential to maintaining the country’s military strength and fitness.

A Festive Banquet by Royal Decree

Elizabeth I ordered that everybody should have goose for their Christmas dinner.

Page 1 | 2 | 3   

The rich would have dined on venison, goose, and with the king’s permission, swan. By curious coincidence, the first thing Elizabeth I ate after the victory of the Spanish Armada was a Christmas meal of roast goose. She then ordered all her subjects to cook goose every year as a fitting tribute to the English sailors who fought off the Spanish.

Goose, however, was an expensive luxury. So the Church (never ones to miss a commercial opportunity) offered a fixed price for the poor of 7 pence for a roasted goose – about a day’s wages.

To make a roast bird look golden & tasty, tudor cooks covered the skin with butter and saffron.

Roast peacock and wild boar were an opportunity for wealthy families to show off. The cooking process tended to make the boar’s head go all pale. So soot and pig’s grease were applied to bring back a more lifelike appearance, while roasted peacock was stuffed back into its original skin and feathers … mmm!

When Queen Victoria came to the throne, roast beef was traditional Christmas fare in the north, while for southerners; goose was still the hot favourite. Poor people made do with rabbit. The royal family dined on royal swan. It was only by the end of the 19th century that turkey farming took off and turkey became affordable and popular.

Turkeys in stylish leather shoes used to walk from Norfolk to London

Hundreds of years before the likes of Bernard Matthews gobbled up the business, unsuspecting turkeys used to set off in October for the 80-mile hike from the Norfolk farms to London to be fattened up and slaughtered by December!

 

Two world wars turned Christmas dinner into a spartan affair. For one thing, food was rationed. The National Federation of Women’s Institutes, now known as the WI, was set up during the First World War. Their Christmas recipes made the most of dwindling supplies, with: apple, orange and sultana chutney, cheese soufflé bites and ‘bread and butter’ pudding.

When World War II was declared, the Ministry of Food estimated that only one family in ten would get turkey or goose for their Christmas dinner that year. A lot of food became ‘mock’, including: fake ‘turkey’ made from lamb, plus pretend ‘cream’ and ‘marzipan’.

“As far as Christmas fare is concerned, there’s no chance of turkey, chicken or goose - not even rabbit. A little mutton is the best we can hope for.” Vere Hodgson

Extra ‘option points’ were given to help people celebrate with occasional luxuries such as tinned goods, dried fruit and sweets. Housewives across the land would press their ears against the radio as their festive ‘points’ allowance was announced.

Forced enterprise led to innovative recipes. A Christmas savoury pie could be concocted from a tin of American pork sausage meat, plus a scrounged bit of beef fat from the butcher for the pastry crust. By June 1944 the air strikes over Britain lessened and families started indulging again. When the swinging 1960s arrived you could order a frozen turkey from the milkman.

Fresh cranberries, sage and onion stuffing and novel ways with sprouts have come in and out of fashion. But even now, the traditional Christmas dinner has remained remarkably unchanged. Piles of washing up and somehow finding room for figgy pudding will always be part of the course!

So what are your plans for Christmas? Will your table be groaning under enough courses to keep Queen Victoria happy? Maybe you’ll be foregoing the traditional turkey for roast goose? Whatever your thoughts and ideas, spread some cheer on the forum.

search
hide search

Filtered search: Use this to filter your results and only search certain areas

Only search within food news
Only search within recipes
Only search feature articles
Only search our forums
Search everything
show or hide advanced search
Quick Poll
I prefer cooking with butter rather than fashionable oils
74.0% agree
74%
agree
26.0% Disagree
26%
Disagree